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Expand your culinary horizons CAD/US $6.95 Issue 35 Autumn 2019 plus NEW HAMPSHIRE JAPAN VIRGINIA COSTA RICA VIETNAM SPARKLING SONOMA DURBAN PLANNING FOOD TOUR MELBOURNE TALLINN TASTES AMELIA ISLAND TENNESSEE On Thunder Road FOR PEOPLE whO LOvE TO read , LOvE TO eat AND LOvE TO travelSOMETIMES THE BEST PLACES ARE THE ONES YOU’VE NEVER BEEN TO. Introducing year-round flights to Panama City and Rio de Janeiro. Immerse yourself in Latin culture with our year-round service to Bogota, Buenos Aires, Lima, Santiago, and São Paulo. And with new service to Panama City and Rio de Janeiro, we’ve got Latin America covered. For more information contact your travel agent or visit aircanada.com Flavours come alive when you add a little ULINARY - Taste & Travel.875" (+ 1/8" bleed) From the hills to the sea, Prince Edward Island is a foodie’s dream. From bold culinary boot camps with famous Island chefs, to guided clam digging and beachside lobster boils, it’s a vacation destination that definitely has food on the mind. So no matter what your taste is, you’re sure to find the right dish when you add a little island. Plan your PEI getaway today at PrinceEdwardIsland.com | 1.877.445.4548 Air Canada offers award-winning service and the most flights to Charlottetown, all year long with daily departures from Toronto, Montreal, and Halifax, and this summer from Ottawa. Book now at aircanada.com/PEILETTER 4 Time To Party! EVENT 6 Food Day Canada dISPATCHES 8 Hot Off The Grill What’s new in the world of culinary travel. JOuRNAL 12 TASTE & TRAvEL readers report from around the world. 12 Lake Placid 13 staunton 14 Franschhoek 15 Costa Rica MARKET FOCuS 48 Grand Marché de Québec, Quebec City LETTERS FROM THE EdGE 72 Backroads Of Japan WAHEEdA HARRIS keeps a food diary while taking the road less travelled in Japan. LOdGING 28 Azerai Resort Can Tho . By NATHAN FONG . 50 TASTE&TRAVEL LIbRARy 80 Book Review Cuicina Siciliana by uRSuLA FERRIGNO . 83 On The Bookshelf New additions to the TASTE&TRAvEL library. TASTE&TRAVEL KITCHEN 84 Mace SuSAN HALLETT profiles a spice treasured by the Dutch. 87 Vegetarian Voyager Quinoa, Blueberry and Broccoli Salad. 95 Cooking With TASTE & TRAVEL Recipe index for this issue and kitchen tips. REGIONAL MARKETPLACE 88 The Culinary Traveller’s Guides 88 OttAWA 89 tORONtO 90 MONtReAl 91 CAlgARy 92 WiNNipeg 94 vANCOUveR NOTA bENE 96 sweet southern Comfort dESTINATIONS 66 D’urban Planning the South African port city offers African and indian flavours, aromas, and creativity. By ELySE GLICKMAN . 32 Down On Thunder Road SuSIE ELLISON embarks on an edible odyssey in east tennessee. 50 sing The Praises Of Tallinn in estonia, music and fabulous bread win favour with ANdREA RATuSKI . ROAd TRIP 58 Falling For New Hampshire NATHAN FONG discovers fall in New england and eats a lot of turkey. quENCH 40 On The sparkling Wine Trail LAuRA SuTHERLANd seeks out the best of the Sonoma bubblies. FOOd TOuR 16 This Is Melbourne CATHERINE VAN bRuNSCHOT gets close to top chefs in Melbourne. dINING 22 Amelia Island SuSIE ELLISON gets a taste of the shrimp industry in Florida. AutumnFOR PEOPLE whO LOvE TO read , LOvE TO eat AND LOvE TO travel CONTENTS ISSuE 35 • october–december • 2019 Enjoy it!Expand your culinary horizons Online Now! www.TasteAndTravelMagazine.com GET itTime to Party! COVeR 2019 Janet p. Boileau PubLISHER A utumn pUBliSheR Janet P. Boileau SeNiOR eDitORiAl CONSUltANt Christopher P. Hill CReAtive DiReCtOR Charlotte Kahn SeNiOR eDitORS Anita Stewart, Anne DesBrisay CONtRiBUtiNg eDitORS Elizabeth Andoh, Stephanie Arsenault, Andrea Ratuski, Pam Collacott, Nathan Fong, Elyse Glickman, Anne Mendelson, Michele Peterson tRAvel eDitORS Susie Ellison, Todd Lawrence eUROpeAN eDitOR Susan Hallett FOOD eDitOR Shari Scheske CONtRiBUtiNg phOtOgRApheR Michel Chicoine WeB DiReCtOR Michael Hyde WeB eDitOR & SOCiAl MeDiA MANAgeR Emily Kennedy COMMUNiCAtiONS COORDiNAtOR Melissa Weiner ADveRtiSiNg SAleS advertising@tasteandtravel.ca pRiNteR The Lowe-Martin Group, Ottawa CONtACt US info@TasteAndTravelMagazine.com eDitORiAl eNQUiRieS editorial@ TasteAndTravelMagazine.com SUBSCRiptiONS & CiRCUlAtiON subscriptions@ TasteAndTravelMagazine.com printed in Canada. Canada post publications Mail Agreement Number 42167015 © 2019 taste&travel international is published quarterly by taste and travel publishing international inc. All rights reserved. Opinions expressed do not necessarily represent those of the publishers. No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. Subscription rate is $100 annually. ThERE’S SOME ExcITING news from the capital — the Canadian Culinary Championships are moving to Ottawa! in the past the annual competition to identify Canada’s best chef has taken place in Kelowna, BC as the culmination of Canada’s great Kitchen party, the nationwide qualifying competitions that take place during the fall. i have the honour (and immense pleasure) of being part of the judging panel for the Ottawa round of Canada’s great Kitchen party, which takes place on November 19 this year. last year we unanimously agreed that Chef yannick laSalle of les Fougères restaurant in gatineau deserved the gold medal in our town and we were ecstatic when he went on to take first place on the podium in Kelowna. laSalle will be joining the Ottawa judges in November when we decide who will be representing our city in the next Canadian Culinary Championships. in that intense competition, twelve gold- medal winning chefs will take part in three competitions over two days, January 31 to February 1, 2020. Canada’s great Kitchen party supports three national charities — Community Food Centres Canada, B2ten and MusicCounts — that promote food security, elite athletes’ development, and musical education for children, respectively. it is a celebration of three pillars of Canadian culture — music, sport and food. Bring it on! 4 taste& travel international october–december 2019 LETTER Enjoy it! K O bby M EN d E zJoin the party! On saturday august 1, 2020 Cook Canadian! august 2020 F rom coast to coast all across Canada, the country’s top restaurants and leading chefs are showcasing Canadian ingredients with seasonal menus celebrating the bounty of land and sea. Home cooks are taking part as well, with backyard barbecues, parties and markets that celebrate Canadian food, some of the finest and freshest in the world. A celebration of Canadian food and food producers get tHe d.I.y. guIde at www.FooddayCanada.ca langdon hall 1Food Day Canada 2019 To mark Food day Canada 2019, we created a menu using exclusively Canadian ingredients, joining chefs and home cooks across the nation in a celebration of Canadian food and food producers. 6 taste& travel international october–december 2019 EVENT CANA d A Cook itbefore • Bloody Caesars Nibble • Foraged Quebec Chanterelles on Toast maiN • Beau's Lug Tread Pulled Pork Sandwiches with Smoke Show Smoked Jalapeno Aioli and Watermelon Pickles SaladS • Lentil & Carrot Salad with Sunflower Seeds & Birch Syrup Vinaigrette • Dilled Potato Salad with Kozlik’s Grainy Mustard Sweet • Cherry Berry Shortcakes with Thyme Biscuits and Riviera Goat Crème Food day Canada 2019 Lunch Food day Canada Celebrating by anita Stewart 7 july–september 2019 taste& travel international EVENT CANA d ANext >