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Expand your culinary horizons Issue 36 Winter 2020 plus SASKATOON PENSACOLA LONDON MONTREAL SAN DIEGO eating out ANN ARBOR QueiJo QueSt AZORES PANAMA PantRY iSRAEl getS ReaL LaKeSiDe WiSCONSiN CHARLEVOIX foR PeoPLe who Love to read , Love to eat anD Love to travel The Charm ofSOMETIMES THE BEST PLACES ARE THE ONES YOU’VE NEVER BEEN TO. Introducing year-round flights to Panama City and Rio de Janeiro. Immerse yourself in Latin culture with our year-round service to Bogota, Buenos Aires, Lima, Santiago, and São Paulo. And with new service to Panama City and Rio de Janeiro, we’ve got Latin America covered. For more information contact your travel agent or visit aircanada.com Flavours come alive when you add a little ULINARY - Taste & Travel.875" (+ 1/8" bleed) From the hills to the sea, Prince Edward Island is a foodie’s dream. From bold culinary boot camps with famous Island chefs, to guided clam digging and beachside lobster boils, it’s a vacation destination that definitely has food on the mind. So no matter what your taste is, you’re sure to find the right dish when you add a little island. Plan your PEI getaway today at PrinceEdwardIsland.com | 1.877.445.4548 Air Canada offers award-winning service and the most flights to Charlottetown, all year long with daily departures from Toronto, Montreal, and Halifax, and this summer from Ottawa. Book now at aircanada.com/PEILETTER 4 Going Home EvENT 6 Canada’s Great Kitchen Party — Ottawa DISPATChES 8 Hot Off The Grill What’s new in the world of culinary travel. jOuRNAL 12 taSte & tRaveL readers report from around the world. 12 Belgrade 13 Charleston 14 south Padre Island 15 Zermatt MARKET FOCuS 50 Palafox Market, Pensacola LETTERS FROM ThE EDGE 72 Panama’s Pantry DIANE PENwELL heads inland to the small mountain town of Boquete. LODGINGS 30 The London eDITION Hotel By TALIA wOOLDRIDGE . 68 De Oude Kraal By ELySE GLICKMAN . — 68 TASTE&TRAvEL LIbRARy 80 Book Review South by SEAN bROCK . 83 On The Bookshelf New additions to the taSte&tRaveL library. TASTE&TRAvEL KITChEN 84 Cinnamon SuSAN hALLETT profiles a spice native to Ceylon. 87 Vegetarian Voyager Thai Tofu Stir-Fry. 95 Cooking With TASTE & TRAvEL Recipe index for this issue and kitchen tips. REGIONAL MARKETPLACE 88 The Culinary Traveller’s Guides 88 OTTaWa 89 TORONTO 90 MONTReal 91 CalgaRy 92 WiNNipeg 93 SaN diegO 94 vaNCOUveR NOTA bENE 96 Valentine’s Day Gift Guide W inter DESTINATIONS 16 Fresh Cheese, Fast Cars LAuRA SuThERLAND is having fun in elkhart lake Wisconsin. 22 Quest For Queijo ANNE DESbRISAy goes on a hunt for cheese in the azores. 34 eating Anarchy SuSIE ELLISON meets a group of passionate culinary activists in ann arbor, Michigan. 42 Food Culture Gets Real In Israel Culinary trends in israel are changing, says ELySE GLICKMAN . 52 The Charm Of Charlevoix This scenic region of Quebec is a haven for artisan food producers and culinary travelers alike. By SuSIE ELLISON . hERITAGE 60 Montreal’s Legendary Beaver Club SuSAN hALLETT looks into the spirited history of Montreal’s famous Beaver Club. DINING 64 Flavours of saskatoon life was hard once upon a time but these days folks on the prairies are eating very well indeed. By wAhEEDA hARRIS . foR PeoPLe who Love to read , Love to eat anD Love to travel CONTENTS ISSuE 36 • january–march • 2020 Enjoy it!Expand your culinary horizons Online Now! www.TasteAndTravelMagazine.com GET itGoing Home W inter COVeR 2020 janet P. Boileau PubLIShER PuBlisher Janet P. Boileau SeNiOR ediTORial CONSUlTaNT Christopher P. Hill CReaTive diReCTOR Charlotte Kahn SeNiOR ediTORS Anita Stewart, Anne DesBrisay CONTRiBUTiNg ediTORS Elizabeth Andoh, Stephanie Arsenault, Andrea Ratuski, Pam Collacott, Nathan Fong, Elyse Glickman, Anne Mendelson, Michele Peterson TRavel ediTORS Susie Ellison, Todd Lawrence eUROpeaN ediTOR Susan Hallett FOOd ediTOR Shari Scheske cOnTriBuTinG PhOTOGraPher Michel Chicoine WeB diReCTOR Michael Hyde WeB ediTOR & SOCial Media MaNageR Emily Kennedy COMMUNiCaTiONS COORdiNaTOR Melissa Weiner adveRTiSiNg SaleS advertising@tasteandtravel.ca pRiNTeR The Lowe-Martin Group, Ottawa CONTaCT US info@TasteAndTravelMagazine.com ediTORial eNQUiRieS editorial@ TasteAndTravelMagazine.com SUBSCRipTiONS & CiRCUlaTiON subscriptions@ TasteAndTravelMagazine.com printed in Canada. Canada post publications Mail agreement Number 42167015 © 2020 Taste&Travel international is published quarterly by Taste and Travel publishing international inc. all rights reserved. Opinions expressed do not necessarily represent those of the publishers. No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. Subscription rate is $100 annually. FOr This issue i reviewed a cookbook by Sean Brock, a southern chef who is breathing new life into the traditional cuisine of his native appalachia. That region, which follows the ridge of the appalachian Mountains from southern New york to northern Mississippi, encompasses many rural communities for whom farm-to-table cooking has always been, by necessity, a way of life. according to the appalachian Regional Commission, only 13 of the 420 countries that make up the region have competitive economies. The remainder are struggling, to varying degrees, with poverty, unemployment and other challenges of transitioning from traditional occupations to those that are viable in today’s economy. in urban communities, affordable food most often equals fast food, which is generally high in fat, salt, sugar and chemical additives, and low in nutritional value. By contrast, the traditional food of rural communities is home grown and locally sourced, rich in nutrients from vegetables, grains, fruits in season, and proteins used sparingly. it’s my belief that good food can be found at every price point. i recently had the pleasure of judging at Ottawa’s great Kitchen party, tasting some brilliant dishes from the city’s finest restaurants, most definitely worth a splurge! But equally delicious were Sean Brock’s biscuits that i made at home, which cost mere pennies per batch. you'll find the recipe on page 81. in this issue, we find folks eating well all over the globe, from ann arbor to the azores, Saskatoon to South africa, Wisconsin to Charlevoix. as we go into a new year, i hope you will enjoy some simple pleasures at your own table. 4 taste& travel international january–march 2020 LETTER Enjoy it!Join the party! On saturday august 1, 2020 Cook Canadian! august 2020 F rom coast to coast all across Canada, the country’s top restaurants and leading chefs are showcasing Canadian ingredients with seasonal menus celebrating the bounty of land and sea. Home cooks are taking part as well, with backyard barbecues, parties and markets that celebrate Canadian food, some of the finest and freshest in the world. A celebration of Canadian food and food producers get tHe d.I.y. guIde at www.FooddayCanada.ca langdon hall 1Canada’s Great Kitchen Party T RANSPARENT K ITC h EN T RANSP ARENT K IT C h EN T RANSP ARENT K IT C h EN T RANSP ARENT K IT C h EN T RANSP ARENT K IT C h EN On nOvember 19 th , 2019 the Ottawa qualifying round of Canada’s Great Kitchen Party was held at the beautiful and historical le Cordon bleu Ottawa. Over 150 guests enjoyed a special evening of celebration with a boutique vIP event, wandering from one elegant room to the next to try the amazing dishes created by eight of the city’s best chefs. Chef Ian Carswell of black tartan Kitchen took the gold medal and will now compete against the winning chefs from eleven other Canadian cities at the Canadian Culinary Championships in the nation’s capital Jan 30–Feb 1, 2020. b ar Lupulus t eam Chef b en Landre ville Chef Shane b rown Chef Yannick Lasalle Chefs Yannick Lasalle and m ar c Lepine Stofa r estaurant team Chef Ian Carswell Guests Podium 6 taste& travel international january–march 2020 EvENT CANADAT RANSPARENT K ITC h EN T RANSP ARENT K IT C h EN T RANSP ARENT K IT C h EN T RANSP ARENT K IT C h EN T RANSP ARENT K IT C h EN Chef Daniela m anrique Judges Chef r azmon Poissonbeckta t eam People’s Choice Daniela m anrique Fauna t eam Chef Jason Sawision Chef b illy Khoo Orto trattoria team Les Fougères t eam 7 july–september 2019 taste& travel international EvENT CANADANext >