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Expand your culinary horizons CAD/US $6.95 Issue 37 Spring 2020 CUBA Return to plUs LAKE GENEVA BUDAPEST GRENADA FLORIDA HIROSHIMA for people who love to read , love to eat and love to travel naShvIlle NOSHING adelaIde FRINGE QUeBeC CItY LOCAVORE Mad for MARSEILLESOMETIMES THE BEST PLACES ARE THE ONES YOU’VE NEVER BEEN TO. Introducing year-round flights to Panama City and Rio de Janeiro. Immerse yourself in Latin culture with our year-round service to Bogota, Buenos Aires, Lima, Santiago, and São Paulo. And with new service to Panama City and Rio de Janeiro, we’ve got Latin America covered. For more information contact your travel agent or visit aircanada.com Flavours come alive when you add a little ULINARY - Taste & Travel.875" (+ 1/8" bleed) From the hills to the sea, Prince Edward Island is a foodie’s dream. From bold culinary boot camps with famous Island chefs, to guided clam digging and beachside lobster boils, it’s a vacation destination that definitely has food on the mind. So no matter what your taste is, you’re sure to find the right dish when you add a little island. Plan your PEI getaway today at PrinceEdwardIsland.com | 1.877.445.4548 Air Canada offers award-winning service and the most flights to Charlottetown, all year long with daily departures from Toronto, Montreal, and Halifax, and this summer from Ottawa. Book now at aircanada.com/PEI16 52 33 LETTER 4 A Capital Affair EVENT 6 Canadian Culinary Championships 58 Inside The Canadian Culinary Championships DISPATcHES 8 Hot Off The Grill What’s new in the world of culinary travel. jOURNAL 12 taSte&travel readers report from around the world. 12 Budapest 13 Grenada 14 Hiroshima 15 sun Peaks DINING 52 The Moving Feast ELYSE GLIcKMAN takes Swiss Rail’s fabled Glacier Express to review its new Excellence Class. DESTINATIONS 20 Tasting Terroir In Quebec City SUSIE ELLISON and ANNE DESBRISAY follow the locavore restaurant trend in Quebec City. 30 Laidback Lake Geneva ANNE DESBRISAY discovers the old fashioned charm of a Wisconsin playground. 34 Noshing In Nashville SUSIE ELLISON finds out why Nashville is the hottest dining destination in the South. 44 Fringing In Adelaide cATHERINE VAN BRUNScHOT ’s first visit to the South Australian city coincides with the Fringe Festival. 62 Mad For Marseille ANDREA RATUSKI finds une vraie bouillabaisse in France’s oldest city. LODGINGS 16 streamsong Resort, Florida By ELYSE GLIcKMAN . for people who love to read , love to eat and love to travel S pring LETTERS FROM THE EDGE 72 A Return To Cuba Some things change, some things stay the same. NATHAN FONG reports from Cuba. MARKET FOcUS 56 Harbourside Market, Wellington TASTE&TRAVEL LIBRARY 80 Book Review The Atlas Cookbook by cHARLIE cARRINGTON . 83 On The Bookshelf New to the shelves of the taSte&travel library. TASTE&TRAVEL KITcHEN 84 Asafoetida SUSAN HALLETT profiles a food of the gods. 87 Vegetarian Voyager Vegetarian Meatballs. 95 Cooking With TASTE & TRAVEL Recipe index for this issue and kitchen tips. REGIONAL MARKETPLAcE 88 The Culinary Traveller’s Guides 88 OttAWA 89 tORONtO 90 MONtREAl 91 CAlGARy 92 WiNNipEG 93 SAN DiEGO 94 VANCOUVER NOTA BENE 96 Travel smarter cONTENTS ISSUE 37 • april–june • 2020 Read it!Expand your culinary horizons Online Now! www.TasteAndTravelMagazine.com GET itA Capital Affair COVeR 2020 janet p. Boileau PUBLISHER S pring pUBliShER Janet P. Boileau SENiOR EDitORiAl CONSUltANt Christopher P. Hill CREAtiVE DiRECtOR Charlotte Kahn SENiOR EDitORS Anita Stewart, Anne DesBrisay CONtRiBUtiNG EDitORS Elizabeth Andoh, Stephanie Arsenault, Andrea Ratuski, Pam Collacott, Nathan Fong, Elyse Glickman, Anne Mendelson, Michele Peterson tRAVEl EDitORS Susie Ellison, Todd Lawrence EUROpEAN EDitOR Susan Hallett FOOD EDitOR Shari Scheske CONtRiBUtiNG phOtOGRAphER Michel Chicoine WEB DiRECtOR Michael Hyde WEB EDitOR & SOCiAl MEDiA MANAGER Emily Kennedy COMMUNiCAtiONS COORDiNAtOR Melissa Weiner ADVERtiSiNG SAlES advertising@tasteandtravel.ca pRiNtER The Lowe-Martin Group, Ottawa CONtACt US info@TasteAndTravelMagazine.com EDitORiAl ENQUiRiES editorial@ TasteAndTravelMagazine.com SUBSCRiptiONS & CiRCUlAtiON subscriptions@ TasteAndTravelMagazine.com printed in Canada. Canada post publications Mail Agreement Number 42167015 © 2020 taste&travel international is published quarterly by taste and travel publishing international inc. All rights reserved. Opinions expressed do not necessarily represent those of the publishers. No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. Subscription rate is $100 annually. iMAGiNE hAViNG A meal dining in one of the best restaurants in Vancouver, then doing the same in Edmonton. then Calgary, and Saskatoon, Ottawa, toronto… all across the country. Even better, imagine twelve first-rate chefs turning up on your doorstep and cooking just for you. that’s what happened to me when the Canadian Culinary Championships moved from its former home in Kelowna, BC, to Ottawa. you will learn more about that fabulous feast in this issue as Ottawa’s CCC judge Anne DesBrisay describes the three-day event. i was lucky enough to taste all the Wine pairing and Grand Finale dishes, and to watch the excitement of the Black Box competition. the talent on display was truly awe inspiring and there can be no doubt that Canadian chefs are among the best in the world. there are exciting things happening on the culinary scene in Quebec City too, as both Anne and our travel Editor Susie Ellison discovered during recent visits. Read in the following pages about the restaurants that are finding inspiration in the boreal forests and rivers of the province. this issue takes us to Nashville, currently one of the hottest dining destinations in the US, and for a complete change of pace, we visit a Wisconsin lakeside retreat. Foraging further afield, we travel to Adelaide for the Fringe Festival and hunt some terrific bouillabaisse in Marseilles. Nathan Fong makes some interesting observations about changes taking place in Cuba and Elyse Glickman experiences the ultimate luxury on board a Swiss train. i hope you’ll enjoy our inspiring Spring issue. 4 taste& travel international april–june 2020 LETTER Enjoy it!Join the party! On saturday august 1, 2020 Cook Canadian! august 2020 F rom coast to coast all across Canada, the country’s top restaurants and leading chefs are showcasing Canadian ingredients with seasonal menus celebrating the bounty of land and sea. Home cooks are taking part as well, with backyard barbecues, parties and markets that celebrate Canadian food, some of the finest and freshest in the world. A celebration of Canadian food and food producers get tHe d.I.y. guIde at www.FooddayCanada.ca langdon hall 1Canadian Culinary Championships The Canadian Culinary Championships were held in Ottawa on January 31 to February 2, 2020, the first time that this prestigious event has taken place in the national capital. Twelve chefs from across Canada took part in three competitions to determine who would take home the trophy and become the new Canadian Culinary Champion. That honour went to Chef Roger Ma of Vancouver’s Boulevard Kitchen and Oyster Bar. Chef Matt Pennell Competitors 6 taste& travel international april–june 2020 EVENT c ANADAJudges People’s Choice Award Chef Darren Craddock Chef Marc- André Jetté Chef Barry Mooney 7 EVENT c ANADA ApRil–june 2020 TASTE& TRAVEL INTERNATIONALNext >