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Expand your culinary horizons The Pearl SAN ANTONIO SnowSPorTS VERMONT BeamSville Bench NIAGARA TanTaliSing TASMANIA Food Tour JASPER plus Hanoi Singapore Japan CanCún LubboCk Issue 40 Winter 2021 lOs ANGElEs Food Trucks For PeoPle who love To read , love To eat and love To travelSOMETIMES THE BEST PLACES ARE THE ONES YOU’VE NEVER BEEN TO. Introducing year-round flights to Panama City and Rio de Janeiro. Immerse yourself in Latin culture with our year-round service to Bogota, Buenos Aires, Lima, Santiago, and São Paulo. And with new service to Panama City and Rio de Janeiro, we’ve got Latin America covered. For more information contact your travel agent or visit aircanada.com Flavours come alive when you add a little ULINARY - Taste & Travel.875" (+ 1/8" bleed) From the hills to the sea, Prince Edward Island is a foodie’s dream. From bold culinary boot camps with famous Island chefs, to guided clam digging and beachside lobster boils, it’s a vacation destination that definitely has food on the mind. So no matter what your taste is, you’re sure to find the right dish when you add a little island. Plan your PEI getaway today at PrinceEdwardIsland.com | 1.877.445.4548 Air Canada offers award-winning service and the most flights to Charlottetown, all year long with daily departures from Toronto, Montreal, and Halifax, and this summer from Ottawa. Book now at aircanada.com/PEI20 42 Winter Letter 4 Remembering Anita event 6 Canada’s Great Kitchen Party diSpatCHeS 8 Hot Off The Grill What’s new in the world of culinary travel. JournaL 12 TaSTe&Travel readers report from around the world. 12 Florence 13 singapore 14 Hanoi 15 Crystal River dining 20 Keep On Trucking In Los Angeles eLYSe gLiCkMan finds food trucks are still on a roll thanks to creative entrepreneurs and chefs inspired by the city’s diverse population. deStinationS 16 stowe And Okemo Laura SutHerLand takes to the slopes in Vermont. 32 The Fermented Flavours Of Aichi Japan’s Aichi prefecture is home to several of the country’s iconic ingredients. By daMian MarCH . 42 Treasuring The Pearl JeSSiCa kobeL visits the dining hub in San Antonio’s revitalized warehouse district. 52 I Believe In Lubbock! The quiet West Texas college town is poised for its moment as a destination, with sophisticated, creative restaurants and still- emergent wine scene whetting appetites. By eLYSe gLiCkMan . Heritage 64 Celebrating With Canada’s First Nations By SuSan HaLLett . 70 Bentwood Box anita SteWart describes a uniquely Canadian cooking method. QuenCH 38 On The Bench taLia WooLdridge explores the vineyards of Niagara’s Beamsville Bench. LetterS froM tHe edge 56 Tantalising Tasmania anne green visits the culinary capital of Australia. Market foCuS 38 Mercado 28 & 23, Cancún food tour 72 Jasper Revelations By CatHerine van brunSCHot . taSte&traveL LibrarY 80 Book Review East by Meera SodHa . 83 On The Bookshelf NEw to the shelves of the TaSTe&Travel library. taSte&traveL kitCHen 84 Rhubarb SuSan HaLLett profiles the pie plant. 87 Vegetarian Voyager Tokhme Banjanromi. 95 Cooking With taSte & traveL Recipe index for this issue and kitchen tips. regionaL MarketpLaCe 88 The taSte&traveL Culinary Traveller’s Guides 88 OTTAWA 89 TORONTO 90 MONTReAL 91 CALgARy 92 WINNIpeg 93 SAN dIegO 94 VANCOUVeR nota bene 96 Valentine’s Day Gift Guide For PeoPle who love To read , love To eat and love To travel ContentS • iSSue 40 • jan–mar • 2021 Read it!Expand your culinary horizons Download NOW! www.TasteAndTravelMagazine.com GET itRemembering Anita W inter COVeR 2021 Janet p. Boileau pubLiSHer pUBLISheR Janet P. Boileau SeNIOR edITORIAL CONSULTANT Christopher P. Hill CReATIVe dIReCTOR Charlotte Kahn SeNIOR edITOR Anne DesBrisay CONTRIBUTINg edITORS Elizabeth Andoh, Stephanie Arsenault, Andrea Ratuski, Pam Collacott, Nathan Fong, Elyse Glickman, Anne Mendelson, Michele Peterson TRAVeL edITORS Susie Ellison, Todd Lawrence eUROpeAN edITOR Susan Hallett FOOd edITOR Shari Scheske CONTRIBUTINg phOTOgRApheR Michel Chicoine WeB dIReCTOR Michael Hyde WeB edITOR & SOCIAL MedIA MANAgeR Emily Kennedy COMMUNICATIONS COORdINATOR Melissa Weiner AdVeRTISINg SALeS advertising@tasteandtravel.ca pRINTeR The Lowe-Martin Group, Ottawa CONTACT US info@TasteAndTravelMagazine.com edITORIAL eNqUIRIeS editorial@ TasteAndTravelMagazine.com SUBSCRIpTIONS & CIRCULATION subscriptions@ TasteAndTravelMagazine.com printed in Canada. Canada post publications Mail Agreement Number 42167015 © 2020 Taste&Travel International is published quarterly by Taste and Travel publishing International Inc. All rights reserved. Opinions expressed do not necessarily represent those of the publishers. No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. Subscription rate is $100 annually. Back in 2006, I was one among a small group of international students enrolled in the Le Cordon Bleu Master of Arts in gastronomy degree program. Approaching our final year, it was time to present our thesis statements to a panel of distinguished academics. For the North American students, this took place during a week-long residential gathering in elora, Ontario. Why choose this small country village, with a river running through it and a fine heritage millhouse? Because it was the home of Anita Stewart. Anita had graduated from the same degree program the year before us, and offered to be our den mother for that week. We were all nervous, unsure of our topics, and afraid of making fools of ourselves in front of the learned panel, and each other. From the moment she opened her front door and ushered us in to a sitting room aglow with candles, Anita surrounded us with warmth, encouragement and kindness. her erudition was matched only by her exuberance — for learning, living and sharing. Anita went on to establish Food day Canada, an annual celebration of Canadian food and food producers. She passionately believed that Canadian ingredients are some of the best in the world and that Canadian chefs should be recognized on the international stage. her unstinting efforts to shine a light on the quality and unique character of the Canadian foodscape saw her appointed as the first ever Food Laureate of the University of guelph, and in 2012 earned her a place among the Order of Canada. To some, Anita was a divisive figure. She wanted us all, and chefs especially, to use more Canadian ingredients and could be a stern critic of those who fell short of her personal standards. But unless we are challenged, how do we grow and learn? And unless have champions, how can we break down barriers? When Anita passed away in October, 2020, Niagara Falls were illuminated in her honour. heartfelt tributes from chefs she had mentored and encouraged poured in from across the country. I am only one among the many, many people whose lives were enriched by Anita’s friendship and her example of courage, compassion and — above all — determination. 4 taste& travel international january–march 2021 Letter Enjoy it! pi QS e LSJoin the party! On saturday july 31, 2021 Cook Canadian! july 2021 F rom coast to coast all across Canada, the country’s top restaurants and leading chefs are showcasing Canadian ingredients with seasonal menus celebrating the bounty of land and sea. Home cooks are taking part as well, with backyard barbecues, parties and markets that celebrate Canadian food, some of the finest and freshest in the world. A celebration of Canadian food and food producers HErE’s HOW tO taKE Part https://fooddaycanada.ca/fooddaycanada/ langdon hall 31Canada’s Great Kitchen Party OTTAWA billy khoo — Fauna SASKATOON steve squier — Picaro Tacos & Cocktails / Cohen’s Beer Republic VANcOuVer kristian eligh — Toptable Group Main: smoked blue goose Farms shortrib, olive oil Potato Purée, Crispy onion, tomato anchovy Crumbs, Dandelion greens. Wine Pairing: averill Creek 2018 somenos Pinot noir, Cowichan valley, bC. Main: smoked hen & lobster sauce américaine, brown butter Pumpkin Purée, Confit Potato, kale, sea asparagus, Fried taro. Wine Pairing: 2019 therianthropy Mouflon, niagara ontario, Canada Field blend (viognier + riesling + Marsanne). WINNIPeG Denise Friesen — Denise et Jean-Louis Catering Main: braised lamb with star anise, Dates, apricots & Middle eastern spices; Fresh Corn Polenta, butternut squash & red onion, lebanese Flatbread. Wine Pairing: lock & Worth 2018 Merlot, naramata bench, bC. Main: saskatchewan surf ’n turf braised snow beef short rib, butter Poached Pickerel Cheeks, toast spelt risotto, Chanterelles, Parsnip Purée, red Wine Demi glace, Pickled Mustard. Wine Pairing: the hatch 2017 screaming Frenzy Meritage, similkameen valley & osoyoos, bC. 6 taste& travel international january–march 2021 event C anada Cook it Canada’s Great KitChen Party, a celebration of Canadian excellence in sport, music and food, met the challenges of 2020 with a unique competition and fundraiser. With the theme emerging stronger, it featured chefs in 13 cities creating 3-course gourmet meals with suggested wine pairing. these were delivered to guests gathered in their own homes to feast and to enjoy online entertainment by a spectacular line up of Canadian musicians. Main dishes of each chef were evaluated by two Kitchen Party judges and these are the winners. Some of the main plates from 2020’s Canada’s Great Kitchen Party. C u r t is t o t h C a s t r o b o a t e n G K r i s t i a n e l i G h l o r e n z o l o s e t o b i l l y K h o o s t e v e sq u i e rThe Winners’ Circle Canada’s Great Kitchen Party KelOWNA Chris braun — Vice & Virtue Brewing Co cAlGAry DunCan ly — Foreign Concept eDMONTON ryan hotChkiss — Bundok MONcTON Matt Pennell — Legends TOrONTO lorenzo loseto — George Restaurant ST JOHN’S jereMy Charles — The Merchant Tavern reGINA Curtis toth — Circa 27 Main: glacier bass, butternut squash, Pine Mushrooms. Wine Pairing: southbrook 2017 laundry vineyard Chardonnay, niagara Peninsula, on. VIcTOrIA Castro boateng — House of Boateng Main: Preserved lemon sable Fish, Coconut & Curry braised lentils, Mussels, Chanterelles, Pickled Plot Market garden beets & Carrots. Wine Pairing: synchromesh 2019 riesling, okanagan valley, bC. Main: sagebrush-smoked bison tri tip, bison roulade, rutabaga, sugar Pumpkin, shoshito jus. Wine Pairing: anthony buchanan Whole Cluster Fermented 2018 syrah, okanagan valley, bC. Main: Cod Pease Pudding ravioli, roasted Carrot, Pork belly, brussels sprouts, swiss Chard. Wine Pairing: Charles baker 2017 ivan vineyard riesling, twenty Miles bench, on. Main: roasted & Pressed beef naval, smoked Carrot Purée, beet Pickled Mustard seeds, beef Fat Fondant Potatoes, saskatchewan Chanterelle Parsnip latte & Carrot top gremolata. Wine Pairing: nk’Mip 2017 Merlot vqa, okanagan valley, bC. HAlIFAX ivan Chan — The Orient Main: nova scotian lobster & shrimp with Duck yolk sauce, Crispy taro nest, Peking-Duck Petals with Dressed Cucumbers & scallion-infused oil. Wine Pairing: gaspereau Cuvée brut 2011, nova scotia. Main: Coffee & Coriander rubbed Pork belly, local Corn Maque Choux, Pickled Peach, roasted squash Perogie & Maple Pork jus. Wine Pairing: Magnetic hill 2019 lodestone White, new brunswick. Main: king orca salmon roulade, side stripe Prawns, Confit Potatoes, Poached vine ripen tomatoes, vietnamese sour broth. Wine Pairing: Wine tantalus 2018 riesling, okanagan valley, bC. Main: Duck Confit, autumn salad, grains, blackberry, Moed Duck stock. Wine Pairing: lock and Worth 2019 Merlot, naramata, on. 7 january–march 2021 taste& travel international event C anadaNext >