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Expand your culinary horizons CULINARY COWICHAN EXPLORING COSTA RICA ROAd tRIP ONTARIO CHILLIN’ IN FREDERICKSBURG plus CANCUN AZORES ST MARTIN MADEIRA DARWIN FlORIDA Issue 41 Spring 2021 St Augustine fOR PEOPLE wHO LOvE tO read , LOvE tO eat ANd LOvE tO travelSOMETIMES THE BEST PLACES ARE THE ONES YOU’VE NEVER BEEN TO. Introducing year-round flights to Panama City and Rio de Janeiro. Immerse yourself in Latin culture with our year-round service to Bogota, Buenos Aires, Lima, Santiago, and São Paulo. And with new service to Panama City and Rio de Janeiro, we’ve got Latin America covered. For more information contact your travel agent or visit aircanada.com Flavours come alive when you add a little ULINARY - Taste & Travel875" (+ 1/8" bleed) From the hills to the sea, Prince Edward Island is a foodie’s dream. From bold culinary boot camps with famous Island chefs, to guided clam digging and beachside lobster boils, it’s a vacation destination that definitely has food on the mind. So no matter what your taste is, you’re sure to find the right dish when you add a little island. Plan your PEI getaway today at PrinceEdwardIsland.com | 1.877.445.4548 Air Canada offers award-winning service and the most flights to Charlottetown, all year long with daily departures from Toronto, Montreal, and Halifax, and this summer from Ottawa. Book now at aircanada.com/PEI20 38 LETTER 4 Two Out Of Three EvENT 6 Food Day Canada DISpATChES 8 Hot Off The Grill What’s new in the world of culinary travel. jOURNAL 12 tAstE & tRAvEL readers report from around the world. 12 Franklin 13 Madeira 14 Tarpon springs 15 st Martin LODGING 16 JW Marriott Cancun Resort & spa DESTINATIONS 20 Fredericksburg, TX: Cozy, sexy, Cool! Southern hospitality, German roots, wine country sophistication, and a dash of global flair. By ELYSE GLICKMAN . 30 Culinary Cowichan Farmers in BC’s Cowichan Valley enjoy the longest growing season in Canada, with as CAThERINE vAN BRUNSChOT discovers, some very tasty results. 50 New Ways To savour The Old World St Augustine Florida is the United States’ oldest city but its food scene is anything but staid. By jESSICA KOBEL . LETTERS fROM ThE EDGE 60 exploring Costa Rica RAChEL WEILL visits an eco-tourism favourite. MARKET fOCUS 48 Mindil Beach sunset Market, Darwin hERITAGE 68 The secrets Of Azorean Cheese Discover the history of cheesemaking on a Portuguese outpost in the Atlantic Ocean. ROAD TRIp 38 Rice Lake Road Trip Shining water, fresh food and plenty of fishing action await at this Ontario lake. By MIChELE pETERSON . TASTE&TRAvEL LIBRARY 74 Book Review Florentine by EMIKO DAvIES . 77 On The Bookshelf New to the shelves of the tAstE&tRAvEL library. TASTE&TRAvEL KITChEN 78 scone secrets Baking expert GENEvIEvE KNIGhTS shares her tips for making the perfect scone and demonstrates just how versatile this baked goody can be. 84 Watercress SUSAN hALLETT profiles a savoury, spicy herb. 87 Vegetarian Voyager Slow-Cooked Courgette, Tomato and Ricotta Frittata. 95 Cooking With TASTE&TRAvEL Recipe index for this issue and kitchen tips. REGIONAL MARKETpLACE 88 The TASTE & TRAvEL Culinary Traveller’s Guides 88 OTTAWA 89 TOROnTO 90 MOnTReAl 91 CAlGARy 92 WinniPeG 93 SAn DieGO 94 VAnCOUVeR NOTA BENE 96 Memorable Mashups fOR PEOPLE wHO LOvE tO read , LOvE tO eat ANd LOvE tO travel Spring CONTENTS • ISSUE 41 • apr–jun • 2021 Read it!Expand your culinary horizons Download NOW! www.TasteAndTravelMagazine.com GET itTwo Out of Three S pring COVeR 2021 janet p. Boileau pUBLIShER PUBliSheR Janet P. Boileau SeniOR eDiTORiAl COnSUlTAnT Christopher P. Hill CReATiVe DiReCTOR Charlotte Kahn SeniOR eDiTOR Anne DesBrisay COnTRiBUTinG eDiTORS Elizabeth Andoh, Stephanie Arsenault, Andrea Ratuski, Pam Collacott, Elyse Glickman, Anne Mendelson, Michele Peterson TRAVel eDiTORS Susie Ellison, Todd Lawrence eUROPeAn eDiTOR Susan Hallett FOOD eDiTOR Shari Scheske COnTRiBUTinG PhOTOGRAPheR Michel Chicoine WeB DiReCTOR Michael Hyde WeB eDiTOR & SOCiAl MeDiA MAnAGeR Emily Kennedy ADVeRTiSinG SAleS advertising@tasteandtravel.ca COnTACT US info@TasteAndTravelMagazine.com eDiTORiAl enqUiRieS editorial@ TasteAndTravelMagazine.com SUBSCRiPTiOnS & CiRCUlATiOn subscriptions@ TasteAndTravelMagazine.com Printed in Canada. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement number 42167015 © 2021 Taste&Travel international is published quarterly by Taste and Travel Publishing international inc. All rights reserved. Opinions expressed do not necessarily represent those of the publishers. no part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. Subscription rate is $100 annually. OUR tAG LINE For people who love to read, love to eat and love to travel sums up our editorial ethos. We focus on culinary travel as a way to explore our multicultural world, using the lens of food as a means of understanding both our shared heritage and what makes our societies unique. A year ago i was in new Zealand, where a revival of the indigenous Māori cuisine is seeing traditional foods gaining mainstream appeal. The feast foods produced in the pit cooking method called hāngi, once reserved for tribal celebrations, are now available from food trucks. One in downtown Auckland came up with an ingenious mashup, encasing the leftovers (smoky chicken, pork and vegetables) in a pastry crust. hello hāngi pie! less than a week after i left new Zealand, the Covid-19 alarm was sounded and borders started to shut down. My passport hasn’t been used since. Some of our contributing writers have managed to travel safely within their own countries and you can read their stories in this issue — jessica Kobel visited america’s oldest city, St Augustine, and lA-based elyse Glickman made it to Texas. Closer to home, Michele Peterson took a road trip in Ontario, while Catherine Van Brunschot explored British Columbia’s Cowichan Valley. Most of us, however, have had to find ways to enjoy ourselves at home. i’ve been glad of the extra time to read some intellectually challenging books and to take on longer- term kitchen projects such as fermenting sauerkraut and making pizza from scratch. i’ve also had fun trying out home-delivered meal kits and ordering takeout from local restaurants. Despite my best efforts at keeping busy, i am feeling cooped up and i expect you are too. So let’s take stock — we may not be able to travel yet but we can still read and we can eat. And as the inimitable rocker Meatloaf reminds us, two out of three ain’t bad. 4 taste& travel international april–june 2021 LETTER Enjoy it! C ASA M ONICA hOTELJoin the party! On saturday july 31, 2021 Cook Canadian! july 2021 F rom coast to coast all across Canada, the country’s top restaurants and leading chefs are showcasing Canadian ingredients with seasonal menus celebrating the bounty of land and sea. Home cooks are taking part as well, with backyard barbecues, parties and markets that celebrate Canadian food, some of the finest and freshest in the world. A celebration of Canadian food and food producers HErE’s HOW tO taKE Part https://fooddaycanada.ca/fooddaycanada/ langdon hall 31Food Day Canada : 10 Years 6 EvENT CANADA TASTE& TRAvEL INTERNATIONAL april–june 2021 Join it FOOD DAY CANADA & tAstE&tRAvEL This year marks the tenth anniversary of the partnership between tAstE&tRAvEL and Food Day Canada, the initiative founded by the late Anita Stewart CM to celebrate Canadian food and food producers. On August 2 nd , 2003 Anita encouraged Canadians to cook with beef at 6 pm that day in to support an industry struggling with the effects of an outbreak of Bovine Spongiform Encephalopathy or Mad Cow Disease. That movement became known as The World’s Longest Barbecue, with Canadians taking part all over the world and sharing their stories and photos. By the time tAstE & tRAvEL magazine launched in 2011, with Anita as an advisor, her campaign had evolved into Food Day Canada, a nationwide salute to Canada’s chefs, farmers, fishers, researchers, food producers and artisans — all those responsible for creating and maintaining Canada’s exceptional culinary heritage. And for the past ten years we have taken part in the celebration, inviting family, friends and neighbours to enjoy the bounty of a mid-summer Canadian table. We may be in a smaller bubble in 2021 but we will be cooking Canadian on July 31 st — and raising a toast to a true Canadian champion. Cook itbefore • Bloody Caesars Nibble • Foraged Quebec Chanterelles on Toast maiN • Beau's Lug Tread Pulled Pork Sandwiches with Smoke Show Smoked Jalapeno Aioli and Watermelon Pickles • Cherry Berry Shortcakes with Thyme Biscuits and Riviera Goat Crème Food day Canada 2019 Lunch Food day Canada Celebrating by anita Stewart with tAstE & tRAvEL 7 EvENT CANADA april–june 2021 TASTE& TRAvEL INTERNATIONAL Enjoy itNext >